Meet Margaret, Gown Hand at the House of Worth

Worth beauties. The dress on the left is from the late 1950s, when Owen Hyde Clark was head designer at Worth.

Sometimes the most wonderful (and unexpected) things happen because of my blog and that’s how I felt when my new friend Margaret from Scotland saw a post I wrote on the House of Worth back in February of this year and sent me an email saying she had worked there from 1958 to 1968. Manna from heaven! Fashion historians agree that the work of Charles Frederick Worth (October 13, 1825—March 10, 1895) was the beginning of modern haute couture. And if you’ve been reading my blog for awhile, you know how much I love couture seamstresses! It seems especially fitting to introduce you to Margaret in July, the month of the fall/winter haute couture shows in Paris.

Margaret so graciously sent me an essay she had written for her cousin to present at a course she took at the V&A Museum in London about Twentieth-Century Fashion. It is a fascinating peek into mid-20th century practices at a fashion house with a prestigious background. The details she relates are so wonderful I just want to share with you what she wrote. Enjoy!

This satin and faille evening gown was cut on the bias and features a matching stole.

WORTH as I knew it.

In 1954 Paquin made a takeover offer which was accepted by Maurice Worth.

In 1956 Paquin was also having difficulties and sold to two brothers who were jewelers with shops in London.

I became involved in the fashion industry when at the age of 13 years I attended a technical college for three years’ training in dressmaking.

In 1957 I joined the London Fashion House of Worth as an assistant for a further two years to complete my apprenticeship.

I worked under the supervision of a gown hand who was responsible for the dresses and took her orders from the fitter in charge of the workroom.

The V&A notes the influence of Christian Dior in the design details of this Worth dress.

In 1958 we attended the wedding of the one of the brothers. The whole house was taken by bus to the service. Afterwards we were all given a little box of sugar almonds.

We were luckier at Worth than some of the other houses whose workrooms were in the basement and could be dark and cold.

Our workroom was near the top floor with plenty of natural light. It could be very hot in the summer as we were working on the next winter’s collection and ironing wool to shrink it before cutting, it was not easy as there were no electric irons as we know them today.

One very hot day I went to work in a sleeveless, lower-necked cotton dress and was told not to wear it again as it was beach wear and inappropriate for the fashion house.

The Worth wedding gown Margaret helped create as featured in The Tatler, Jan/Feb 1961.

I then worked as an assistant to a junior gown hand and we were lucky to be given a model wedding dress to make. We were very excited when a photograph was put in a magazine but of course we were not mentioned, just the designer. All the lace and appliqué was sewn by hand, also neatening and hemming.

This dress is from 1955, so just before Margaret worked there.

In the workroom of 25-30 girls there were only two old treadle sewing machines. These were only used on the seams as everything else was by hand.

We worked from 8:30 to 5:30 with 3/4-hour for lunch and two 10-minute comfort breaks morning and afternoon.

My starting salary was £3.10, rising to £5 as a junior gown hand. When I became a gown hand I had three assistants and one apprentice working with me.

A stand would be padded to the exact size of the client and the pattern of the chosen model would be fitted to that shape. After cutting, the client would usually have 3 fittings but there could be more until the client was satisfied.

A detail of the embroidery.

A 1960 dress from Worth.

I love the back and side of this dress as much as the front!

Towards the end of the sixties there was less work to keep the rooms occupied. We were not surprised when we were told that the house was being closed. Worth was sold to Sidney Massin, a U.S. entrepreneur who briefly revived it with American designer Hylan Booker.

Another 1960 dress from Worth, designed by Owen Hyde Clark.

In the spring of 1968 we were finally made redundant. While I was looking for employment in a fashion house I saw an advert for summer work in Harrods. At the interview I was offered work as a packer. The interviewer apologized for not being able to offer more money. Little did she know that the £12.50 was exactly the same as my last salary at Worth. No, I didn’t go back to a fashion house again. I stayed at Harrods and worked in the children’s department until I married. There were many jobs afterwards, none connected to dressmaking until I came to Scotland and started tutoring dressmaking classes for adults in local community centers. I retired this year but haven’t hung up my scissors yet.

I love the color, I love the details!

Thank you so much to Margaret for sharing this essay with me so I could share it with all of you!

All photos of the dresses courtesy of the V&A Museum.

Last Call: Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced

A 1972 Stephen Burrows ensemble.

If you live in NYC or are visiting for the summer, get your disco-loving self up to The Museum of the City of New York by July 28 to take in the fabulous Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced.

If you can’t, I hope the idea of a disco ensemble will inspire you to join Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and me for “How I Wear My: Casual Party Outfit” on August 1. We are accepting pictures until July 31.

Mr. Burrows, of course, would advise on something body-conscious, with floaty, drapey fabrics and possibly sequins. A man after my own heart!

The work of Stephen Burrows: perfect for a casual party!

The Museum of the City of New York
1220 Fifth Avenue (at 104th Street)
New York NY 10029

Welcome, Prince George!

A brooch from the Tower of London.

In honor of William and Kate’s new baby boy, Prince George Alexander Louis, I’m going to wear my brooch that is modeled after the Imperial State Crown that will be placed on his head one day at his coronation as the King of England!

Going through a dresser drawer, I came across a brooch I bought during a 1990 trip to London. I had forgotten all about it! I purchased it from the Tower of London, one of my favorite sites during that visit, obsessed as I was at the time with the history of the British Monarchy in the 14th-17th centuries.

I love all the history of the Tower of London.

The Imperial State Crown of the British Monarchy.

My brooch is modeled after the Imperial State Crown, which was commissioned for the coronation of King George VI on May 12, 1937. It was created by Garrard & Co. and is based on a crown designed for Queen Victoria in 1838. It includes the diamond known as Cullinan II, or the “Second Star of Africa,” which is 317.4 carats and is the second largest stone cut from the Great Cullinan Diamond, the largest diamond ever discovered.

The crown also includes the Black Prince’s Ruby (which is actually a spinel), a stone thought to be given to Edward, Prince of Wales (1330-1376, son of Edward III, and known as the Black Prince), by Don Pedro, King of Castile, in 1367.

My pin must be modeled after one of the fleurs-de-lis on either side of the Black Prince’s Ruby in the center!

Elizabeth II wearing the Imperial State Crown at her coronation, June 2, 1953.

The happy family!

Did you have a prediction as to the gender and birthdate of the Royal Baby? I had guessed a girl to be born on July 26. I was way off base! How did you fare?

Congratulations to William and Kate on the birth of their son!

Facts and photos of the crown from the Royal Collection Trust.

J. Crew Jewels (or, Blame It on Barbara!)

I love this necklace with stripes!

I have had costume jewelry on the brain because of the gorgeous exhibit Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger as well as a post by the lovely Déjà at Une femme d’un certain âge showing a great necklace by J. Crew. So I suppose I was susceptible to a necklace purchase and this one sent me over the edge. I went to J. Crew looking for replacement T-shirts on sale (a Planned Purchase, but they were sold out!) and came away with this instead (and a little summer dress for my daughter).

With flash.

I haven’t bought a J. Crew necklace in a couple of years—and yes, this was against my Shopping Ban, I am a little disgusted with myself!—but this one is totally me, not offered on the website, and I couldn’t walk away from it. I kept hearing Barbara Berger’s words in my head when she spoke of a jewelry purchase as a coup de coeur. Sometimes you just know. I plan on wearing it as part of my Casual Party Outfit for the next “How I Wear My” post in August—and I do hope you will join Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and me!

Without flash. I love that shade of blue in the rectangular stones.

Have you bought a glittery necklace lately? Tell me all about it!

And send a picture to Adrienne or me showing your Casual Party Outfit by July 31!

Costume Jewelry Collecting Tips from Barbara Berger

This 2007-08 necklace is by Chanel. Amazing!

During the preview of Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger, Ms. Berger was asked a question by one of the writers, one question turned into two from someone else, and pretty soon an impromptu Q&A session was taking place alongside one of the jewelry cases. I wrote down what Ms. Berger said as fast as I could because it was a fascinating primer on how to collect costume jewelry from someone with a world-renowned collection!

A stunning 1955 necklace by CIS/Countess Zoltowska. 

Barbara on the care of her jewelry:

After wear, each piece is gently cleaned and then protected with plastic bubble wrap. It is marked and then stored. (Side note: the 450 pieces in the exhibition came in only 3 trunks, talk about organized!)

Barbara noted that in some ways it can be harder to take care of costume jewelry than fine. For instance, she said it’s difficult to replace a lost stone. She also said she doesn’t believe in restoring a missing stone, she lets the piece remain as it is.

Are the necklaces heavy?

No, they are not, says Barbara. They are light!

Does she wear big jewelry all the time?

No, she admits she doesn’t wear her jewelry much during the day, she tends to wear it more at night.

A wristlet by Chanel, 2000.

Can today’s collector put together a collection like hers?

She noted that nowadays it is difficult to amass a collection like the one she has and said, “Many people are doing it (collecting) and many people know what they have (meaning sellers).”

Collecting can’t always be planned out and controlled. “You can’t say, I’m going to Paris and I have to find a Dior or a Chanel,” she said. “It doesn’t work like that. The pleasure of collecting is in the hunt of the treasure.”

She said many of her pieces were random finds. “I’m a Sagittarius and I love traveling. Wherever I’m traveling, I find something.”

Detail of a Maison Gripoix for Chanel necklace, circa 1980-1990.

Where should today’s collector go to look for pieces?

She was very clear about this: Go to flea markets! In Paris, she frequents the Marché aux Puces, in Manhattan she recommended the Chelsea Flea on W. 25th Street, and in Brooklyn she likes the Brooklyn Flea in Williamsburg.

Interestingly, she said the only errors she ever made in buying were when she couldn’t see the piece in front of her, to hold it and look it over. For that reason she sounded like she was not a big proponent of eBay (and I can see her point, but I have had good luck there on three separate vintage costume jewelry buying occasions!).

French paste necklace from 1925. I fell hard for this one.

Barbara on collecting:

She said the importance of a collection is that “it’s your eye, your vision.”

She talked of falling in love with what she’s buying, saying, “It spoke to me,” or that the purchase was a coup de coeur, instantly striking her heart. Which is great shopping advice whether you are considering a piece for your collection or just adding a new blouse to your wardrobe. If you do not love it, you should not buy it!

A 2000 necklace by Dolce & Gabbana.

Barbara on the exhibit:

“My life has come full circle for the show to be in New York. Fashion Jewelry should be in New York. It’s a happy show. You can’t leave without smiling.”

Barbara, who currently lives in Mexico, grew up in New York City, the daughter of a diamond merchant, and it was apparent that the exhibit was a kind of homecoming for her when she smiled and said of it, “It’s the dream of my life.”

A wild necklace attributed to Emilio Pucci, 1960, made by Coppola e Toppo.

Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger is on view at The Museum of Arts and Design until January 20, 2014.

If you’d like to learn even more about Barbara and her collection, there is a book that accompanies the exhibit.

The Museum of Arts and Design
Jerome and Simona Chazen Building
2 Columbus Circle
madmuseum.org
Open daily 10AM-6PM (Thurs and Fri until 9PM)
Closed Mondays (except select holidays)

Marion Bartoli and Her Hermès Hapi 3MM Bracelet

Marion wearing her Hermès Hapi 3MM bracelet.

I couldn’t help noticing the thin strips of black leather on Marion Bartoli’s wrist as she played in the Wimbledon finals on Saturday. They looked very familiar to me. On closer inspection I realized she was wearing an Hermès Hapi 3MM bracelet in black leather with palladium hardware. I bought the same one last fall and it is one of my favorite accessories!

Marion realizing she just won Wimbledon.

I love that she is out there on the court, playing hard, sweating all over the place, winning Wimbledon, meanwhile wearing a leather bracelet on one wrist and a pearl bracelet on the other. I tend to baby my Hapi 3MM but after seeing Marion I’m thinking it’s time to give that policy a review.

Marion with her opponent Sabine Lisicki at the awards ceremony. Photo by AP/Anja Niedringhaus.

For me, this is a great (and far less expensive) alternative to the Hermès Collier de Chien cuff.

How I style my Hapi 3MM in cooler weather.

Marion with her Wimbledon trophy. I love that she is wearing a pearl bracelet on the other wrist!

Do you baby your more precious accessories or wear them no matter what?

How I Wear My: Sunglasses

Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget).

Sunglasses are an important accessory any time of year but now that it’s summer we won’t leave the house without them so Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and I thought July’s “How I Wear My” post should be devoted to shades.

Sunglasses are a great way to add some fun, glamour, or effortless cool to your look and these ladies show how a practical—and necessary!—accessory can add a whole new dimension to your outfit.

Adrienne, above, of The Rich Life (on a budget), my lovely “How I Wear My” partner, looks fabulous in a pair of tortoiseshell cat-eye sunglasses. And check out that gorgeous hair color—I love ombré!

Bella of The Citizen Rosebud.

I specifically asked Bella of The Citizen Rosebud for a picture of her in her red heart-shaped glasses—they are my absolute favorites on her and she wears them so saucily and well!

Hey Sailor! Bella is kicking it nautical style and I have to say, mama like.

Catherine of Not Dressed As Lamb knocking it out of the park with these cat-eyes!

Catherine of Not Dressed As Lamb says of her sunnies:

I don’t wear my tortoiseshell cat-eye sunglasses as often as I should (they’re pretty dramatic) - but now I love them worn with my hair up in milkmaid braids! I think it’s important to wear the right kind of sunglasses, not only to complement your outfit but also your hairstyle.

Suzanne of Suzanne Carillo Style Files.

Suzanne of Suzanne Carillo Style Files looks so retro glam in this pair of vintage replica sunglasses!

Sacramento of MIS PAPELICOS.

Sacramento of MIS PAPELICOS is wearing her favorite sunglasses of the moment. The pink frames are perfect on her!

Deja of Une femme d’un certain âge.

Déjà of Une femme d’un certain âge writes of her look:

These glasses have a very ‘French Riviera circa 1960’ vibe.

I say Oui, oui to that, it’s one look I never get tired of!

Teresa in a terrific pair of blue SEE Eyewear sunglasses. I love these! Photo by Denton Taylor.

Denton says his wife’s friends all love her blue SEE sunglasses. I’m a fan of them too.

Sarah of Cloud of Secrets. Off topic, I love this dress on her, she looks gorgeous!

Sarah of Cloud of Secrets wears her sunglasses on her head, which I often do myself! She writes:

I really wear them on my head more than over my eyes - I’ve come to love how they add lift and flow to my layered wavy hair. I wear them as a headband on cloudy days sometimes.

Show of hands—how many other ladies wear their sunglasses this way?

Alicia of Spashionista. Love the glasses, love the pattern mixing!

Alicia of Spashionista says of her sunnies:

My prescription glasses are so strong I just had Transitions lenses put into this particular pair. These are Costco’s own brand, Kirkland.

I love these on her, they are super stylish!

Maryna of Antares: Alpha Scorpii.

Maryna of Antares: Alpha Scorpii is currently working in Thailand and this picture was taken at the Vertigo Bar atop the Banyan Tree skyscraper in Bangkok. She is wearing Karen Walker Number One sunglasses in tortoiseshell. Isn’t this a fabulous shot?

Ana of Mrs. American Made.

Ana of Mrs. American Made is wearing a pair of glasses of the kind I favor too—equally glamorous whether she wears them on her Colorado ranch or finds herself in the city!

Silk Path Diary looking so chic in Ray-Ban aviators. I love her relaxed easy style.

Silk Path Diary says she wears her steel Ray-Ban aviators year-round. I can understand why because they look so sleek and chic on her!

Heather of Stylemindchic in glam sunglasses and lipstick. Yowza!

Heather of Stylemindchic is wearing her Kenneth Cole Reaction sunglasses with Chanel Rouge Coco Lip Colour in ‘Paradis’. Smokin’ hot!

Jeannie of Gracefully 50 in all her glorious shades!

Jeannie of Gracefully 50 says of her sunnies:

I don’t go anywhere without my sunglasses. I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing sunburn in my eyes, and I do NOT want go there again. I picked 4 of my favorite pairs. Top two are Ray-Bans, lower left is Christian Dior Aviators, and the lower right is Chanel.

Jeannie has built up a nice collection of gorgeous sunglasses!

Target sunglasses, $20! It’s hard to tell but these are dark purple, which I love.

Target sunglasses, shirt and necklace by J. Crew.

I got these purple sunglasses a couple of years ago at Target for $20! I had been looking at very expensive glasses by Prada and Chanel but couldn’t bring myself to pay so much for shades. I’d rather save on sunglasses and splurge on something else!

These glasses have a slight 1970s glamour vibe to me and it was fun to pair them with a glittery necklace. This one is by J. Crew. Isn’t it perfectly ironic that the day I wanted to take pictures it was raining outside? There was a storm passing overhead so I used the flash. I kind of dig the Terry Richardson feel to this photo, to tell you the truth. In so much of his work he uses flash and the girls look like it’s 1983 and they’re always wearing a lot of lip-gloss. Hey, wait a second! Is that Duran Duran playing in the background?

Do you have a Go-To pair of sunglasses?

One of the pleasures of summer is the parties that happen over the course of it. Whether they are rooftop cocktails, park picnics, backyard barbecues, or beach bonfires, they seem even more special during the fleeting days of summer, don’t you think? So please join us in August for “How I Wear My: Casual Party Outfit”. We’d love to see how you style a relaxed summer party look. Send a picture to Adrienne or me by July 31.

Do head over to Adrienne’s to see even more fabulous sunglasses looks!

And thank you to the fine foxes who participated this month.