Saturday, June 30, 2012

Skirt Sewing Success!


Before I embark on sewing my Chanel-like jacket I knew I had to finish the skirt I started last summer. Okay, it took me 11 months to complete, but I did stop work on it over winter.

I went with a simple A-line skirt pattern, Butterick 4461, great fabric (black bubble eyelet from Mood) and took my time with each step. The skirt came out better than I expected!

I got to wear it recently to a barbecue so I went with a ladylike vibe, pairing the skirt with a black sleeveless Gap shell, a black Jackie cardigan from J. Crew tied at my shoulders, and black patent flats.


Other accessories included a black patent bag, a silver/grey bracelet, and red lips!

These looked great with my skirt.

Three perfect accessories.

A nude slip under the eyelet.

I didn’t line the skirt, knowing I wanted to wear it with a nude-colored half-slip. Terri from RAGS against the MACHINE suggested I try a deep blue slip underneath. After putting my daughter’s shiny red superhero cape underneath the eyelet for photos I think Terri is right so I will have to keep my eyes open for a cobalt blue slip or maybe even make my own.

My daughter's red superhero cape under the eyelet.

The sewing deck has been cleared so stand by for some Chanel!

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Spotlight: Jean Paul Gaultier & Yves Saint Laurent

Jean Paul Gaulter for Hermès, Fall 2010.

I know I mostly highlight dresses and gowns here but in my day-to-day life, it’s me and pants all the way. They’re comfortable, work with my lifestyle, and I forever love the way you can make them feminine or masculine by what you pair them with.

Two designers, Jean Paul Gaultier and Yves Saint Laurent, whose masculine/feminine work is now on view at The Museum at FIT as part of the exhibit Fashion, A-Z: Highlights from the Collection of The Museum at FIT, Part Two, called out for a pairing in a post, even if they reside in different parts of the gallery.

The older I get the more I love Jean Paul Gaultier, oh he of the cone bra corset Madonna wore during her 1990 Blonde Ambition tour—an updated version of which she is sporting right now during her current MDNA world tour. The more I see of Gaultier’s work the more I understand how very talented and wonderful he is. In addition to his own line, which has an honest-to-God haute couture designation, he was creative director at Hermès from 2003 to 2010. I absolutely love the ensemble above, which he designed for Hermès in Fall 2010.

Madge in 1990 in her Jean Paul Gaultier-designed cone bra corset. Love!

Madge now in her latest Jean Paul Gaultier-designed cone bra corset. Also love!

As for Yves Saint Laurent, he who gave us Le Smoking and the Safari jacket, I know this suit is from 1967 but I would love it if, sometime in October, I caught a glimpse of a long and lean lady striding down 5th Avenue (near 57th Street so our friend Bill Cunningham could snap a shot of her!) wearing this ensemble. Superb!

A 1967 Yves Saint Laurent (Rive Gauche) suit of navy pinstripe wool knit.

I do believe this lady is wearing the same suit. Photo by Helmut Newton.

I read recently that the company Yves Saint Laurent is becoming “Saint Laurent Paris” and moving their design studios from Paris to Los Angeles to suit new creative director Hedi Slimane. I’ll try to keep an open mind but I think this is terrible news for the brand. A name change? Paris to Los Angeles? Really?

What would Yves think?

If you would like to see some of the designs that made him famous, head on over to FIT. Fashion, A-Z: Highlights from the Collection of The Museum at FIT, Part Two is on view until November 10, 2012.

The Museum at FIT
Seventh Avenue at 27th Street
New York NY 10001-5992
212-217-4558
Hours: Tuesday-Friday: Noon-8PM
Saturday: 10AM-5PM
Closed Sundays, Mondays and legal holidays

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

These Colors Don't Run (They Sparkle)

Vintage American flag brooch by Avon, circa early 80s.

This is your friendly reminder that Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and I would love for you to join us for July’s “How I Wear My: Red, White and/or Blue” post. You can send me a picture of how you wear your red, white and/or blue, whether patriotic or not. I will be skipping patriotism in favor of sparkle and stripes.

But speaking of patriotism, my grandmother gave me this American flag brooch when I was younger. I’m pretty sure it’s from Avon and I remember loving it as a child so I’m so glad I own it now and I’ve pinned it right in the center of my J. Crew Farmer’s Market tote to personalize my summer bag with something meaningful to me on a couple of levels.

The brooch on my J. Crew Farmer's Market tote.

Do show us your colors! Photos must be received by July 2, 2012 5PM PST—Adrienne is in California and I am in New York, but Adrienne is hosting in July so we are going by her time zone!

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

DIY Chanel Jacket: The Pattern

Vogue Pattern number V8804

One of the main reasons I want to tackle the project of making a Chanel-like jacket is because Claire Shaeffer, who literally wrote the book on couture sewing techniques, designed the pattern and wrote the instructions for V8804. She is also penning a six-part series on sewing the jacket for Vogue Patterns. From reading her book Couture Sewing Techniques I know she is an expert in the technical secrets of haute couture and I’m hoping her articles in Vogue Patterns will be clear and in-depth so even relative sewing neophytes like myself can follow along.

The addition of French makes me want to pretend I work in an haute couture atelier. Oui!

Claire's opening paragraph. I love it.

Her reassuring writing in the beginning of the pattern instructions bolsters my confidence. Which is good, because I look at the pattern with all the stitching lines for quilting various parts of the jacket and think I am in deep doo-doo.

The lower half of the side front with the stitching lines to quilt the lining to the shell fabric.

At this point I am gathering resources which will help me take on (and complete!) this jacket and number one in my arsenal is my mother, who has a lot of sewing experience, much more than myself, and whom I plan on consulting often. I also plan on being at her house in July and that’s when I am going to work on the muslin. I know I want my jacket semi-fitted, slightly tight, and with bracelet sleeves, so a muslin is a must to perfect the proportions and fit.

Sewers talk about loving the three-piece sleeve in a Chanel jacket. I don’t know that I fully understand the significance of the three-piece sleeve, I’m assuming it’s about controlling the shape, but Claire’s pattern has one, which is another plus. I do know that Coco Chanel had very strong feelings about sleeves so I feel there is a whole world I am going to learn about.

Part of the upper sleeve back. I'm scared. Hold me!

Next up—the resources I’m turning to for inspiration and guidance. In the meantime, maybe this should be my new sign-off symbol:



Are you taking on a sewing project this summer?

Monday, June 18, 2012

The Charles James Tree Dress

A 1955 Charles James "Tree" Dress of silk taffeta and netting.

Ever since seeing the wonderful Charles James dresses on display in 2010 at the Brooklyn Museum as part of American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection, I look for every opportunity to see more of his work. So I felt very lucky to be able to photograph (over and over) this pink Charles James “Tree” dress at The Museum at FIT now on view as part of the exhibit Fashion, A-Z: Highlights from the Collection of The Museum at FIT, Part Two. James often repeated designs, such as the Tree dress, in different colors, so I have also seen this dress in drop dead red, with shoulder straps, now owned by the Met, and FIT owns this design in another pink, a gold, and a green.Wouldn’t it be fun to see all those Tree dresses lined up in a row?


As for the name of the dress, I found this in the book High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, written by Jan Glier Reeder, who curated the 2010 Brooklyn Museum exhibit:

“Deploying a double entendre, James named this design for one of his clients, Marietta Peabody Fitzgerald Tree, mother of the model Penelope Tree, and also as a reference to the plant form, which the silhouette, uprooted, resembles.”

James thought of himself as a sculptor, architect, and engineer of dresses.

James employed rigid interior boning in the bodice to achieve this shape.

I had a chance recently to see the roses at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden (a 30-minute walk from my apartment), and I am always struck by how some of the roses, with their many petals, remind me of elaborate dresses, so it seems perfect for these gorgeous pink and white blooms to share the same post with James’ beyond beautiful Tree dress.

Enjoy!

Guinevere roses.

I never get tired of white roses!

This bloom smelled like rose heaven.

Fashion, A-Z: Highlights from the Collection of The Museum at FIT, Part Two is on view until November 10, 2012.

The Museum at FIT
Seventh Avenue at 27th Street
New York NY 10001-5992
212-217-4558
Hours: Tuesday-Friday: Noon-8PM
Saturday: 10AM-5PM
Closed Sundays, Mondays, and legal holidays

Thursday, June 14, 2012

DIY Chanel Jacket: The Idea

If you want to sew along, this is the first issue of Vogue Patterns to get, June/July 2012.

I’m going to embark on a little couture journey this summer. My mother alerted me to the fact that the June/July 2012 issue of Vogue Patterns featured the first of a six-part series about making a Chanel-like jacket, written by Claire Shaeffer, one of my favorite fashion sewing writers, so I knew I had to check it out. I went to the bookstore and had a look at the article, then went home and had a meeting with myself. Do I really, really, have time to work on a Chanel jacket, with all the muslin-making, quilting, hand-sewing, and potential for do-it-yourself heartbreak?

The article by Claire Shaeffer. Love the picture of Coco at work!

Then I went through all of my other regular excuses besides the time issue—no space to sew, any jacket I make can never be the real thing, I don’t have enough sewing experience, it might turn out crappy (and on and on and on)—and realize that I am sick of all of them. I think maybe a challenge is exactly what I need right now and I hope by taking on something as iconic as a jacket like those produced by the House of Chanel, I will learn something new about myself—and possibly Coco herself—in the process.

So I went back to the bookstore, bought the magazine, ordered the pattern (V8804) and decided to go for it.

My jacket will be black or midnight blue.

Please understand, Dear Reader, that I do not promise to not buy an honest-to-God Chanel jacket at some point in my fashion-collecting life. It will be vintage and it will be wonderful. In the meantime, I am going to learn the secrets of making one and will share with you whatever I discover.

Next up next week: notes on the pattern. Until then, here are three recent Chanel jackets I loved, all from the Resort 2012 collection.

I love the collar and shoulders on this lavender jacket.

I'm normally not a fan of yellow but I adore this fabric in this color.

I wish I could wear this jacket on the 4th of July!

Monday, June 11, 2012

Gatsby Dressing

Daisy Buchanan would wear this dress.

The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald is my favorite novel by any writer of any nationality and I’ve read it so many times—I think nearly twenty, which still seems low to me—that I could teach it. I’ve also read it in its first draft form, Trimalchio, which is an amazing experience. It makes you realize how much Fitzgerald’s editor Maxwell Perkins had to do with not only shaping the novel but getting the best work out of Fitzgerald he could.

I'm re-reading it this summer. Who will join me?

I highly recommend this book for Fitzgerald scholars.

With my love of Gatsby I am very excited about the Baz Lurhmann-directed remake of The Great Gatsby, last made in 1974 with Robert Redford and Mia Farrow, with costumes by Theoni V. Aldredge (although Redford’s suits came from Ralph Lauren). The new Gatsby preview looks good and I can’t wait until Christmas Day when the movie is released!

If you like Gatsby like I do then you will enjoy these flapper dresses, now on view at The Museum at FIT as part of the exhibit Fashion, A-Z: Highlights from the Collection of The Museum at FIT, Part Two.

Edward Molyneux's 1926-27 sequined flapper dress. I am dying of love!

It’s always a special treat for me whenever I get a chance to see a dress by British designer Edward Molyneux. They are short, sparkly and still look amazing almost a hundred years after they were made. This one is no exception. Molyneux, who was an infantry captain with the Duke of Wellington Regiment in the British Army during WWI, opened his couture house in Paris in 1919. Former employee Pierre Balmain thought Molyneux was “synonymous with elegant simplicity and refinement.” Molyneux’s couture house was in operation from 1919-1950.

A 1929 Jean Patou dress of off-white silk chiffon and rhinestones.

I also love seeing work by Jean Patou. The gallery text says he traveled from France to the United States in 1924 to study what he called the “American Diana.” He thought American women, with their slender, athletic figures, were better suited than their European counterparts to his elegant, sporty designs. And did you know he was a contemporary of Gabrielle Chanel, whom he considered his greatest rival?

Ralph Lauren, 2007. 

This dress by Ralph Lauren is just outside the exhibit and is a perfect introduction to the show. I love Lauren’s modern take on a flapper dress.



Lame, embroidered tulle, glass beads, rhinestones.

Fashion, A-Z: Highlights from the Collection of The Museum at FIT, Part Two is on view until November 10, 2012.

The Museum at FIT
Seventh Avenue at 27th Street
New York NY 10001-5992
212-217-4558
Hours: Tuesday-Friday: Noon-8PM
Saturday: 10AM-5PM
Closed Sundays, Mondays, and legal holidays

Thursday, June 7, 2012

You Had Me at Chanel

The classic Chanel jacket. Mama like.

In advance of the book The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and former French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld, which will be released on August 15, 2012 (my birthday!), there is a micro-exhibit on the iconic black Chanel jacket from June 8-15 in Manhattan. I’m so there. I will report back if they allow me to take photos.

There is a fun range of videos and pictures that Chanel has released which you can see if you click here. I am especially enamored of the very short video (too short!) that shows the Chanel seamstresses making one of the jackets. Check it out if you get a chance. It’s the last selection in the menu, called “The Jacket.”

I tried this jacket on once at Saks. It was a little piece of fashion heaven.

The exhibit poster featuring Joan Smalls.

The Little Black Jacket
June 8-15
18 Wooster Street (between Grand and Canal Streets)
New York City
12-7PM
1-800-550-0005

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

How I Wear My: Chic Traveling Outfit

About to take a car trip in March of this year. I never get tired of a striped top while traveling!

For this month’s “How I Wear My” post, Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and I have been thinking about travel and one of us (sadly, not me) has just returned from an overseas trip.

No matter where you are going this summer, or by what mode of transportation, it’s always a fun challenge to be comfortable when traveling and yet look good too. Since most of the trips I take are by car, with two kids in the backseat, either one of whom can become carsick without warning, I feel I am combining some sort of laidback chic with a roll of paper towels, plastic bags, and a gigantic scarf and cardigan to toss over my Louis Vuitton Neverfull monogram tote as soon as the vomit starts flying. Kids! Don’t throw up on Mommy’s bag! Please!


This being the current state of travel in my house, all but the Louis Vuitton tote has to be machine-washable. Therefore, this is about as chic as it gets these days:

J. Crew Jackie cardigan and snakeprint infinity scarf, a great Xmas present from my MIL!

If I was going on a European adventure, like the kind Adrienne just returned from in Italy and Switzerland (lucky girl!), I would be wearing the exact combination she has on.

Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) in Lucerne, Switzerland.

Of her look Adrienne says:

“On the plane, I wore bootcut jeans with a little Lycra in them. I like to have that extra stretch for when the inevitable air travel bloat comes on. I also wore my black water resistant trench coat. Lucky I did because it was raining when we arrived in Lucerne.”

Hang who writes POUM! La Mode, one of my favorite new blog discoveries, is a Vietnamese designer who lives in Bangkok. I always love to see what she’s wearing and this post on travel was no exception. She writes:

“I often travel with my little son and usually by air, so comfort is always the priority but I try my best to look good and tidy ‘til the end of the trip. I always wear a T-shirt, cardigan/jacket, pants and flats for traveling. No belt, lace shoes, non-wired bra and panty with no metal charm. I often put jewelry in a little pouch in my bag and wear it afterwards. I have a cashmere shawl most of the time in my bag and use it in the plane.”

Hang of POUM! La Mode. She made those suitcase decals herself!

Marina of Antares: Alfa Scorpi

The always- gorgeous Marina, of Antares: Alpha Scorpii, lives in Kiev, Ukraine. She says:

“This is what I’ll wear for travel - stretchy jeans and lots of layering. I’m usually freezing while traveling by plane, but airport waiting areas can be really hot sometimes, so I love to have some options - to be able to put on something or to take off one of the layers. Also - big bag. I can’t travel without books, magazines, some hard candy, a shawl and sometimes a pair of socks (for the same reasons that I love layered outfits). And shoes - these wedges may look inappropriate, but they are really comfortable, so I have no problem with traveling in them.”

I love the shoes!

Sacramento of MIS PAPELICOS, who lives in Spain, just returned from a trip to Berlin. She writes:

“I always travel light when I know well the place I am going to. I just carry personal items and a case full of hope and wonder. 99% of the time in Berlin I have been wearing clothes from my daughter’s closet that fit (a miracle if you consider that we are 4 sizes apart, lol) and flea market finds.”

Sacramento of MIS PAPELICOS looking stylish in Berlin!

Jeannie of Gracefully 50 is going on a long plane trip this summer and about travel tips she says:

“I usually have a large scarf for times when the jacket/sweater might be a bit much. Of course, a very comfortable pair of sandals is a must, and I usually pack a pair of socks that I can put on during the flight. If the flight is longer than a few hours, I also pack my small travel pillow and my Kindle to catch up on some reading!”

Jeannie of Gracefully 50. I especially love the blue scarf and Louis Vuitton bag.

Bliss from Stepping My Way to Bliss has ideas on travel clothing I completely agree with. She writes:

“I usually opt for yoga pants and loose-fitting clothing while traveling especially when I know I will be sitting for a long period. What I won’t wear are sweatpants, sweatshirts, pajama-looking clothing—ever. It is easy to ‘spruce’ up an outfit so that while on the road, I can still feel ‘snappy’—even when I am tired, cranky and feeling a bit cramped.”

Her go-to travel pieces are ones I fall back on as well:

Bliss of Stepping My Way to Bliss. Hello, gorgeous scarf!

Bliss's jewelry. Bling makes everything better. Isn't that the most beautiful bracelet?

Amy of Low Carb High Style says of her look:

“I happened to put this together the week I was going on a trip and, unsure what to wear on the plane the night before we left, I realized this outfit had all the elements of something good to travel in. Comfy pants and tank, and a layer to stay warm or take off if the plane was hot. I simply changed out the shoes for a pair of wedges I was planning on taking along anyway!”

Amy of Low Carb High Style. I need a white watch like that!

Laura of Who Planned This? writes of her ensemble:

“I will be traveling with my four kids on Friday, without their father. I need to be comfortable and ‘well’ dressed so I can get through security easily and help my kids. I like my TOMS for comfort and ease, red jeans for comfort plus durability and lots of layers for warmth. Simple jewelry finishes off my look.”

Laura of Who Planned This?

Terri of RAGS against the MACHINE lives in Kansas and tells me she takes a fair amount of trips by car, just like me. These terrific photos come from Bemidji, Minnesota, (with the Paul Bunyon statue) and the fireworks stand is in Iowa, just before crossing the state line into Missouri.

Look closely, it's Terri from RAGS against the MACHINE.

I love the pop of color over neutral pants. Perfect!


This lady is da bomb.

For July, in the spirit of Independence Day, Adrienne and I are going to be working those most patriotic of colors, so join us for “How I Wear My: Red, White and/or Blue” on July 3. They aren’t just patriotic, they are classic summer colors, and so very nautical (think of those wonderful Breton sailor stripes!), so whether you wear all three together or go with two, or even one, show us your red, white and/or blue!

Do stop by The Rich Life (on a budget) to see what else Adrienne has to share on chic traveling outfits. I’m sure she looked gorgeous while on vacation!

And Happy Trails to all the fine foxes who participated this month.