Thursday, February 28, 2013

LSD and Camille Got the Green Memo

Lauren Santo Domingo in 2012. What a great look!

May I offer you some green, two different ways?

The first features Moda Operandi co-founder Lauren Santo Domingo in a picture from last year. I still love this look, and it reminds me I should look for a green skirt.

The second look is by Claude Monet in his painting Camille. This is how they kicked it 1866-style when a lady wore green, which I have to say I’m quite partial to, I love the stripes, I love it paired with black! Camille, in case you didn’t know, was Monet’s mistress at the time he painted this picture, and later became his wife. I hope for the sake of love and art that he bought her this ensemble!


“I absolutely did not wish to make a portrait but simply a Parisian of the era,” Monet later said of this work. Camille launched both Monet’s career and a new era in painting.

Consider this your friendly reminder that Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and I would love to see you wear green for our next installment of “How I Wear My.”

Send a picture to either of us by March 4. All shades of green are welcome!

Camille is on view at the Met as part of the exhibit Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity until May 27, 2013.

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Chado Ralph Rucci

I love this Chado Ralph Rucci dress.

My local library has added the Vogue Patterns catalog among their magazine selections. I have never seen this at a library before but I think it’s great! A flip through it made a dress catch my eye and reminded me I own this pattern. I have been so busy with kid stuff—including trying to get my son into middle school in NYC—that my Chanel jacket is on hiatus while I figure out if I should rework the muslin I made or start over with a different pattern altogether. God knows I don’t have time to make this lovely Chado Ralph Rucci dress but I just love the look of it. I’d make it in black (or midnight blue) of course.


Ralph Rucci is an American couturier and was inducted to the Fashion Walk of Fame in New York City in 2011—I have to go see if they’ve installed his plaque on Seventh Avenue yet. He is the only American since Mainbocher to have his clothes receive the haute couture designation by the Parisian syndicate and to show his collection in Paris during haute couture week.

There is a documentary about him, A Quiet American: Ralph Rucci and Paris, that I am dying to see. Unfortunately I missed a showing of it at FIT last October but maybe they will screen it again. It follows him and his work over the course of four years. I need to see this film!


The back of the pattern envelope.

Michelle Dockery in vintage Chado Ralph Rucci. Gorgeous!

If you caught sight of Downton Abbey’s Michelle Dockery in her stunning black dress at the SAG Awards in January, you have seen the gifted Mr. Rucci’s work. Ms. Dockery wore a Chado Ralph Rucci from the 1990s. (Completely unrelated side note: If you liked her makeup and hair that night you must read the background on it over at Into the Gloss.) I think she looked gorgeous. I usually despise seeing actresses wear black on the red carpet, but the Ralph Rucci dress was so special that it was one of those dresses that made me think black could never, ever be boring.

The cutouts make this dress so special.

I know this might be too much side boob for some but I still think Michelle looks divine!

I love the back details of this dress.

Friday, February 22, 2013

Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity

An 1866 painting by Claude Monet, Camille.

Four years in the making and featuring 80 Impressionist masterworks by artists such as Monet, Manet, Renoir, Tissot, Whistler, Morisot, and Cassatt, and shown alongside clothes of the period, the glorious new show Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity opens to the public February 26, 2013 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The exhibit, a joint venture between the Met, the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and the Art Institute of Chicago, will travel to Chicago after its run at the Met.

The show explores the relationship between art and fashion from the mid-1860s to the mid-1880s and underscores the “defining role of fashion” in Impressionist painting, says Susan Alyson Stein, Curator in the Department of European Paintings, who organized the exhibit for the Met.

A gray and green striped silk gauze dress from 1865-68.

Stripes were increasingly popular in ladies’ fashions by the mid-1860s.

Met director Thomas P. Campbell noted in his remarks to the press that “artists turned a fresh eye to the fashions of their day” which they knew showed “the pulse and flow of contemporary life.”

I predict this show will be as big a hit in New York as it was in Paris, where over 500,000 visitors saw it, breaking attendance records at the Musée d’Orsay.

Camille in the exhibit.

The pairing of period clothing with the paintings they inspired is brilliant curatorial work. Most of the clothes are not from any particular couturier—with the exception of two Charles Frederick Worth gowns in the final gallery (Ah ha! I called it!). This allows the viewer to glance from painting to garment and back again to note how the mode of the day was expressed in some of the most famous artistic masterpieces from that time. It also shows that the clothes, too, could often be considered works of art.

A 1862-64 Day Dress of white cotton piqué with black soutache, inspired by military uniforms.

The opening quote in the exhibit is from Édouard Manet in 1881: “The latest fashion…is absolutely necessary for a painting. It’s what matters most.” As department stores, ready-made clothes, and fashion magazines all began to rise in the late 19th century, the avant-garde painters of the day understood that changing fashions were what was new and modern in their increasingly industrialized and rapidly changing landscape.

A visit to this exhibit offers a fascinating backward glance to an era I’ve always liked learning about. With their increased interest in evening entertainments, department stores, magazines, and the latest fashions—in the face of so many changes in their day-to-day life—late 19th century society, as presented in Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, is one I can relate to, whose pastimes feel familiar.

The wonderful dresses are interspersed through each gallery.

An 1867 Day Dress with Monet’s 1865-66 Luncheon on the Grass (central panel) in the background.

Monet’s 1866 Women in the Garden. The lady in the foreground wears a dress with soutache.

Auguste Renoir, Lise (Woman with Umbrella), 1867.

A Morning Dress from 1865. A white dress was a sign of purity and a privileged lifestyle.

Parasols of 1860-69 of black silk lace, ivory silk faille, taffeta and carved ivory handles.

Amen, brothers.

So hard to capture because of the reflection but I loved this 1877 Reception Dress!

I want to wear this and go drink champagne somewhere. Who’s with me?

The Maison Roger dress is of silk organza and includes Chantilly and guipure lace and jet!

The Parisienne by Édouard Manet, 1875. This is the 1st time it has traveled to the US.

On the Balcony by Berthe Morisot, 1872, showing the artist’s sister and niece. It makes me think of me and my girl!

Another Morisot I loved, Figure of a Woman (Before the Theater), 1875.

An 1880 summer dress and the painting it is featured in.

The picture above shows In the Conservatory (Madame Bartholomé) by Albert Bartholomé, as well as the actual dress his wife wore when he painted her portrait. When she died, just six years after he painted this picture, Bartholomé gave up painting and turned to sculpture. He kept the dress his wife wore, and it has been perfectly preserved.

In the Conservatory (Madame Bartholomé) by Albert Bartholomé, 1881.

The rise of department stores led to an increased demand for new fashions. An 1881 advertisement.

Frederick Gustavus Burnaby, an 1870 painting by James Tissot. I love a man in uniform!

A derby and top hat with Gustave Caillebotte’s 1880 At the Café in the background.

A man’s frock coat and trousers from 1867-68.

Arrangement in Flesh Colour and Black: Portrait of Théodore Duret by Whistler, 1883.

A trio of corsets from 1877-1880.

Oh that yellow dress! Evening (The Ball) by James Tissot, 1878.

Mary Cassatt’s In the Loge, 1878. Check out the man in the picture looking at this lady!

An 1882 Evening Dress of cream silk satin and netting by Charles Frederick Worth. 

Worth had a special room in his atelier to show how fabrics and colors would look in artificial light.

By the end of the 1800’s Worth was THE couturier and was dictating trends and silhouettes.

The artificial roses and leaves would have trembled with every move made by the wearer.

I love this picture by Auguste Renoir. The Loge, 1874. Black and white stripes and pink roses!

Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity is on view until May 27, 2013.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street
New York NY 10028

Friday, February 15, 2013

The House of Worth

I love the beading on this exquisite 1882 dress by Charles Frederick Worth.

The Met’s exhibit Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity opens February 26, 2013 and I couldn’t be more excited to see it. Coming straight from Paris, it is an examination through both paintings and period dress of the relationship between fashion and art from the mid-1860s to the 1880s, when Paris emerged as the style capital of the world.

In honor of this show I am sharing some pictures of a few of the glorious Charles Frederick Worth gowns that the Met owns. I don’t know if any of them will be on display since the exhibit is a joint effort between them, the Art Institute of Chicago and the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, but I hope so, I love the opportunity to see the work of Worth, considered by fashion historians (including myself) as the father of haute couture.

This 1882 gown seems slightly bridal to me but I bet it was an evening gown.

I love the stripes on this 1885 Walking dress.

I know Coco Chanel rebelled against this look but I can’t help but be charmed by it.

Worth made this 1889 cape Tulipes Hollandaises to highlight the gorgeous textile by A.M. Gourd & Cie.

Worth worked in textiles before designing and remained a lifelong proponent of the industry.

The colors in this 1875 Afternoon dress (!) are amazing.

I can’t believe how well-preserved this dress is!

I got to see this at the 2010 exhibit American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection.

I mean, I am dying just looking at this detail, it is so beautiful.

All images courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.