Chanel Chanel

A rare treat, Chanel Chanel is a 61-minute documentary from 1986 featuring biographical information on Gabrielle Chanel’s background and rise to fashion fame and legend, but also lets Mademoiselle speak for herself. In an interview she must’ve given in the mid-1960s, Coco is as feisty as ever, talking about the details of her life and style. Another fascinating aspect is a younger Karl Lagerfeld, who would’ve only been three years into his role as Chanel’s creative director at the time the movie was made. He gives several interviews and shows the three huge collage books he made, with pictures of Coco’s designs in the 20s, 30s, and 50s.

Karl Lagerfeld. He looks this young in the documentary.

I was struck by how knowledgeable Lagerfeld is about fashion history. He really knows his stuff! At one point, looking at Chanel’s designs from the 1920s he says, “I could replace any of these dresses with Patou, Molyneux or Lanvin, no one would know the difference.” Wow!

Talking of Chanel’s later years Lagerfeld notes, “I think she found the typical Chanel look late in her life.” Chanel closed her house in 1939, at the start of World War II, and didn’t reopen it until 1954. It was then, when Chanel was in her seventies, that she introduced the bouclé suit that became so iconic and emblematic of the Chanel style. Lagerfeld thinks the long break she took gave Coco a perfect distance to her life and earlier work. “She stopped and started again,” he says. “And that makes a big difference.”

As for shaking up the house of Chanel with his bold designs he remarks, “You cannot design a collection with respect, I think it can paralyze you.”

Chanel Chanel gives a quick and entertaining overview of the woman who built not only a company but a remarkable life. It also provides a glimpse of the man who has helped build Chanel the brand into a global powerhouse over the past 29 years.

I found a copy of Chanel Chanel at the Brooklyn Public Library. Netflix does not have it yet, but it appears they are going to be getting it at some point, so save it to your queue! I highly recommend it.

Fashion Walk of Fame: Mainbocher

Mainbocher’s plaque on the Fashion Walk of Fame.

It’s been awhile since I have done a Fashion Walk of Fame post, but I knew when I returned to this series that I wanted to highlight Mainbocher, and my reading this year of a biography of the Duchess of Windsor only made me more interested in him.

His plaque reads:

“Mainbocher was known for the understated elegance of his clothing. Among his innovations were short evening dresses, jeweled sweaters, and a revival of the corset that anticipated Dior’s New Look. Most famous for designing the Duchess of Windsor’s trousseau in 1937, he also designed uniforms for the WAVES, the Red Cross, and the Girl Scouts.”

Cocktail ensemble, circa 1955.

Main Rousseau Bocher was born October 24, 1890 and was a native of Chicago. After studying art at the University of Chicago and the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts, he served in the Army in World War I and stayed in Paris after the war. He worked as a fine arts illustrator for Harper’s Bazaar and then as Paris fashion editor of Vogue. He eventually became Editor in Chief of French Vogue in 1927, which is kind of amazing when you think about it, that an EIC could end up a hugely successful fashion designer and one of the two sole Americans ever to be admitted to the Chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne (Parisian High Fashion Syndicate) (Ralph Rucci is the other).

In 1929 Main Bocher fused his name together and started a fashion house called Mainbocher Couture, which continued in Paris until 1939. In 1940 he moved his business to New York City. In his day he dressed women from fashion editors Carmel Snow and Diana Vreeland, to society ladies like Millicent Rogers and Daisy Fellowes, and Hollywood stars such as Mary Pickford and Claudette Colbert. He closed his house in 1971, when he was 81.

Without the jacket. I want to wear this and drink champagne.

Black evening suit, 1947.

Even if you think you don’t know the work of Mainbocher, you actually do, for a couple of reasons. The picture below of the woman in the corset is quite famous, and you’ve probably seen a photograph of the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor on June 3, 1937. In both instances the women are wearing garments by Mainbocher.

Mainbocher Corset, 1939. Photo by Horst P. Horst.

The Duke and Duchess of Windsor on their wedding day. June 3, 1937.

The lovely dress Mainbocher designed for Wallis to wear when marrying the former Edward VIII of England has lost its gorgeous pale shade of blue, known as Wallis Blue, due to the instability of the dye used to color the dress but it’s still quite beautiful. The Duchess of Windsor gave her Mainbocher wedding ensemble to The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1950.

Wallis Simpson’s wedding dress, 1937.

Mainbocher, 1941. Photo by Horst P. Horst.

As for the pronunciation of his name, I have read it’s said in the French way (Man-bo-shay) and also that it’s actually said “Main-Bocker.” I’ll take the French way, thank you very much, and wouldn’t he as well, since he spent so much time in Paris?

Mainbocher’s plaque is on Seventh Avenue in New York City, between 37th and 38th Streets, next to milliner Lilly Daché.

Pictures of the Mainbocher dresses all courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Secondhand Treasures: New to You

Thrifting is one of those pursuits I don’t do often—with so little time to shop when I do get a chance to I’d much rather hit up high-end stores like Bergdorf’s, Cartier, or Hermès, to look at beautiful things, dream a little, and, most importantly, not spend a dime. I go to those stores like I’d go to a museum, ask anyone who’s gone with me! As for thrifting, I worry that I’d spend too much money at it, money that would otherwise go in my Fashion Fund for planned purchases, which is the only way I like to buy anything these days, even simple things like T-shirts, jeans, and cardigans.

Here is one of the very few secondhand pieces I have, a 1950s jet, mother-of-pearl, and diamanté necklace that I bought from an antique jewelry dealer in northern England last year via eBay. I absolutely adore this necklace and it gets regular rotation in my wardrobe in the fall and winter months. I paid more than a couple of bucks for it though, so does that count as thrifting?

Maybe I will be tempted to rethink my shopping habits when I see what people share for “How I Wear My: Secondhand Treasure” in September. Consider this your friendly reminder that Adrienne and I would love for you to join us! Please send either of us a picture of yourself in your secondhand treasure by September 4 at 8PM PST.

Essie’s 30-Year-Old Ballet Slippers

Ballet Slippers by Essie.

I recently read a great Into the Gloss interview with Essie Weingarten, founder of Essie nail polish. I am a big fan of Essie, both the lady and the company, and the interview is a great window into how Essie founded her business, her own manicure rituals, and favorite colors. If you have five to ten minutes, I highly recommend it!

I thought it was especially interesting to learn Ballet Slippers is a shade that is nearly 30 years old and one that Ms. Weingarten claims is as important as the name “Essie” to the company. It has been one of my favorite neutral shades for over 15 years and I happen to have a new bottle of it in my current line-up of Essie shades.

A chorus line of Essie polishes.

The colors above, left to right, are Ballet Slippers, Mademoiselle, Curtain Call, Limo-Scene, Limited Addiction, Berry Hard, and Velvet Voyeur. Regarding the polish names Essie says in the interview, “I learned that if you give things names that women appreciate and adore, they’re going to remember it.” And she’s right, I love all the names above.

I plan on wearing a lot of Ballet Slippers, Berry Hard, and Velvet Voyeur this fall. Do you have a favorite shade of Essie? Do tell me what it is so I can check it out!

Last Call: Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations

Prada skirt from Autumn/Winter 2007-8.

This Sunday, August 19, marks the final day of Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. I don’t think the Met has had the crowds this summer they had at last year’s amazing McQueen exhibition, so they are not extending the date on the Schiaparelli and Prada show, as they did last year with McQueen.

Detail of skirt of orange silk twill, black wool felt and feathers with orange plastic fringe.

Portrait of Miuccia Prada by Guido Harari, 1999.

Portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli by George Hoyningen-Huené, 1932.

Because of the reading I have been doing on Coco Chanel this summer, I know if she were alive it would please her to no end that an exhibition featuring Elsa Schiaparelli comes to a close on Chanel’s birthday, August 19. Gabrielle and Elsa really did not like each other’s sartorial style, and the press had fun stoking up their rivalry in the 1930s. Other designers weighed in on the two of them as well, and I recently read this gem from the young Balenciaga: “You see, Coco had very little taste, but it was good. Schiap, on the other hand, had lots of it, but it was bad.”

Ouch! (Though in Schiaparelli’s defense, I would not kick this cape out of my closet.)

Schiaparelli cape from Winter 1938-9 of black silk velvet embroidered with image of Apollo.

The image of Apollo is in metallic thread, sequins, beads and yellow rhinestones.

Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations runs through August 19, 2012.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street
New York NY 10028
metmuseum.org

Ode to Ina

The Mixed Berry Pavlova recipe is in this book. You can also find it here.

When I was at my parents’ house in Virginia in July, I made sure to watch as much cable TV as possible, since I don’t have it at home. What I loaded up on more than anything was Barefoot Contessa on Food Network. I love Ina Garten—her personality, her cooking style, her big beautiful house in East Hampton! I also adore her table settings and the fact that when she opens her fridge there are usually multiple bottles of champagne inside. A gal after my own heart!

I feel so Ina when there's champagne in the fridge. My husband and I have birthdays this week!

I met Ina in 2006 at a book signing for Barefoot Contessa at Home at the Crate and Barrel on Madison Avenue in NYC. It was the longest book signing line I have ever seen, snaking throughout the gigantic store and then wrapping around the building outside on the sidewalk. My first thought was, Behold the power of television! Ina is exactly how she appears on her show—sweet, fun, and always smiling and gracious. I want her to adopt me. Surely she needs a 40-something niece who lives in Brooklyn, where she grew up? Ina, I can be your sous chef and I will also take out the trash and do laundry! Call me!

For a little hit of Ina I watch her on DVD. “Passport to Paris” is my favorite.

My mother and I were inspired to make Mixed Berry Pavlova after watching Ina make it for Jeffrey (I love those two together, so cute!). The Pavlova was easy, great fun and turned out delicious. I highly recommend it for your next summer party.

My mother making the meringue.

Which gets topped with whipped cream, triple raspberry sauce and fresh fruit.

Watching Ina’s show I realized I am a tiny bit obsessed with her glassware. I particularly love her wine glasses and through her website found the French glassmaker who sells them, Pomme & Poire. I do believe I am going to save some money to buy a set of 4 “Amitie” red wine glasses. For me, part of the luxury of having a glass of wine is enjoying it in beautiful stemware and I would love to add a set of these to my collection.

“Amitie” red wine glass by Pomme & Poire.

Do watch Ina’s show? What do you think of her table settings and stemware? Which recipes of hers are your favorites?

DIY Chanel Jacket: Muslin Work (or Lack Thereof, Thank You London 2012 Olympics)

I had grand plans to have my muslin for my Chanel-like jacket already done by now, but when I was setting that goal for myself I completely forgot that the Summer Olympics were coming on! I am an Olympic nut, have been since I was a child, equally love both the Summer and Winter Olympics, and find myself glued to the TV every night between 8pm and midnight to watch whatever sport NBC is covering.

Which has been quite unfortunate for my Chanel jacket plans.

Before the Olympics started I did manage to get all the pieces cut out and marked, ready for thread tracing and then stitching.

Why yes, I DID use a Chanel bio as a paperweight when tracing the muslin.

I will let you in on a little secret. I have never made a muslin before and I have no idea what I’m doing. I’m going by what I learned from Susan Khalje’s class “The Couture Dress” which I took earlier this year on Craftsy. So far so good.

I have been gathering supplies so I bought black silk organza for the sew-in interfacing (just $8 at Chic Fabrics in NYC!), and I also picked up silk thread for the basting I will eventually be doing. I got these vintage spools of Belding Corticelli and Talon silk thread on eBay for a great price. Susan Khalje said Belding Corticelli in Size A was particularly wonderful to work with and I thought cream and red would be great colors against black or blue fabric.

Speaking of fabric, a recent scan of Mood’s website showed that the Oscar de la Renta bouclé I liked is gone, so I’m back to square one in the hunt for fabric. Is this a sign that I should go to Mendel Goldberg? I think it is, especially after I called them to find out their temporary location after a fire shuttered their Hester Street shop this spring. The charming owner Alice Goldberg answered the phone and then had her assistant send me this card. Mendel Goldberg, here I come!

They feature Chanel bouclés. I am so there, even if only to look!

As for my muslin, I will be working on it again as soon as the Olympics are over.

Are you watching the Olympics too? To the detriment of any summer projects you’ve started?

How I Wear My: Chanel-Inspired Outfit

August brings not only the dog days of summer, but the birthday of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel on the 19th, so Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget) and I decided that for this month’s “How I Wear My” post we were going to have a little Chanel party.

In the 1986 documentary Chanel Chanel Karl Lagerfeld said, “In every decade there is a way to put Chanel back on the fashion map because it’s, with blue jeans, the most famous look in the world.”

I chose chains instead of pearls. This J. Crew necklace is one of my favorites.

I think every one of these looks proves Karl’s point, whether the wearer selected a classic jacket, the combination of black and white, or piling on the pearls! I also love the ladies who chose to wear a hat since Coco got her design start in millinery. I can’t imagine the Chanel look ever going out of style and these ladies prove the rich fashion vein Coco Chanel introduced is still very much worth mining!

Adrienne of The Rich Life (on a budget). 

Pam of Over 50 Feeling 40.

Robyn of Robyn's Nest.

Jeannie of Gracefully 50.

Terri of RAGS against the MACHINE.

Amy of Low Carb High Style.

Gracey of Fashion For Giants.

Hang of POUM! La Mode.

Madison of Fashion Tales.

Catherine of Not Dressed As Lamb.

Oh how I love every one of these accessories!

Thanks to all the fine foxes who participated this month!

The arrival of September means fall is fast approaching. For many of us that means hitting the malls and boutiques for new fall clothes and accessories. But why not skip buying new and try out secondhand? Show us your favorite secondhand piece or outfit. It can be a thrifted or consigned item, something used that you won on eBay or even a hand-me-down. Adrienne and I would love to see your gently-used treasures.

Simply send me or Adrienne a photo of yourself wearing your secondhand item along with a brief description and you will be featured on September 4th's “How I Wear My: Secondhand Treasure” post.

And do head over to Adrienne to see her fabulous Chanel-inspired jewelry!