Thursday, March 31, 2011

Window Love

Bill Cunningham mentioned in his recent “On the Street” narrative, “Early Signs of Spring,” that retailers had put together window displays that “stop you in your track.” I know Bill’s favorite stomping grounds include 57th Street and 5th Avenue in Manhattan, so on Tuesday I packed up my girl, got on the F train, and went into the city.

Sometimes I like to see these windows just for color inspiration. Plus, seeing how beautiful they are gives me a little lift. Here were a few of my favorites.

The cherry blossom branches inside the Van Cleef & Arpels windows grow outside the displays and crawl across the building. I love how this picture shows the reflection of the buildings across the street.



Bergdorf Goodman windows. I love the exquisite black and white lace dress and coat, especially next to the dress of red and black chevron stripes, and look at the wonderful display behind them!

Miu Miu shoes, $790 (ouch), and with a 5-inch heel (double ouch), but I love them anyway. They are like something modern-day Daisy Buchanan of The Great Gatsby would wear.

At Louis Vuitton all the featured items were inside broken eggs. I love the color of this bag against the gorgeous berry-colored tufted cushions.





My daughter was fascinated by the eggs in the Louis Vuitton windows. “I want that one, Mom!” (The egg, she could care less about Louis Vuitton.)

A window outside of Tiffany & Co. I love the trompe l'oeil and I thought this couple with their red coats was so cute together. He's shooting south down 5th Avenue.

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Anna Wintour in WSJ Magazine

Anna on the cover of WSJ Magazine. Photo by Mario Testino.

There’s a great article in the April 2010 issue of Wall Street Journal Magazine about Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour. One of the things I found most interesting was the writer pointing out that Anna isn’t grooming anyone to take over her job. What would be the point? Diana Vreeland didn’t groom Grace Mirabella (Vreeland and Mirabella being the last two Vogue Editors before Anna, respectively), and Grace certainly didn’t groom Anna. I got the feeling from reading Grace’s book, In and Out of Vogue, that she despises Anna Wintour and did the whole time they worked together. Anyway, when someone is named Editor in Chief of Vogue they usually appoint a whole new staff.

I have to say, Anna is only 61, do we even have to hear retirement rumors? I think she still brings a lot to both the fashion industry and Vogue, I wouldn’t want the magazine to be helmed by a 30-year-old. Anna has that cumulative knowledge about fashion and magazines that not many could replicate. She’s not always perfect—for instance, the loving gaze on trust fund girls gets tiresome, and I wish she’d clear the cover of text and just feature the model’s picture and the magazine title, like they do on the subscriber cover of Harper’s Bazaar, but April’s issue is fantastic. From an article about American couturier of the 1940’s and 50’s Charles James, to a profile of pop diva hottie Rihanna, to a piece on a Vogue writer attempting to give up her nightly glass of wine (girl, why would you ever want to do that?), it’s definitely a keeper. So is Anna. I, for one, hope she’s around for awhile more, though I know that not everyone likes her. What do YOU think?

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Now We Are One

Flat Maddie on the Brooklyn Bridge.

Yesterday was the first anniversary of my blog. I started with a picture of my vintage Chanel bag and Flat Maddie, the adorable cutout my little niece sent me from Arizona, asking me to take her on an adventure before putting her in an envelope and sending her on for more fun across the country. Flat Maddie, my son and I took a stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge from Brooklyn to Manhattan, with picture stops on the way. Noticing what we were up to, random New Yorkers, in that wonderful way they can surprise you with, shouted at us, “Hey, it’s Flat Stanley! Hi Flat Stanley!” Flat Stanley is the children’s book by Jeff Brown of a cutout boy who travels via envelope all over the world for different adventures. On the way over the bridge I couldn’t help noticing several Chanel bags on the women and it seemed natural to bring the two together in my first post, Flat Maddie and Chanel. My regular life and my fashion life.

Flat Maddie against one of the gorgeous tile mosaics at the Delancey Street station in Manhattan.

My vintage Chanel bag, which I just love.

I have learned so much about blogging, photography and writing in the past year. I have also learned invaluable lessons in generosity and reciprocity from Nerida at Art for Interiors, Sarah at Cloud of Secrets, Veshoevius at The Taxonomy of My Wardrobe, Vahni at Grit & Glamour, Bella at the Citizen Rosebud, Terri at RAGS against the MACHINE, Pam at over50feeling40, Paula at Fashion Over Fifty, my dear Sacramento at MIS PAPELICOS, and my wonderful mother, Linda, who gives the best pep talks of anyone I know.

I am so grateful to everyone who has stopped by my blog, made comments, followed or given me any piece of advice that’s helped me become a better blogger and, more important, a better person. Thank you thank you thank you.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Ode to Elizabeth

Elizabeth Taylor in that white swimsuit from a key scene in Suddenly, Last Summer. Was she ever any hotter? Photo from Doctor Macro.

Elizabeth Taylor, one of the last of the old Hollywood legends of beauty and glamour, died yesterday. I am a huge Tennessee Williams fans so I especially loved her as Maggie in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and as Catherine in Suddenly, Last Summer. My other favorite Elizabeth Taylor movies are Butterfield 8, A Place in the Sun, and Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

The cover of the 2002 book Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair With Jewelry.

She was, of course, a big jewelry collector and two pieces she owned are currently on display in the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum exhibit Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels. From the Exhibition Object Guide:

"After starring in Cleopatra in 1963 and marrying Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor began collecting one of the best private jewelry collections in the United States. On an excursion to Geneva in 1971, Burton bought his wife this Lamartine bracelet along with the matching ear pendants to highlight her violet eyes."

Lamartine bracelet. Paris, France, 1970. Coral, amethysts, diamonds, platinum, yellow gold.

Lamartine pair of pendant earrings. Paris, France, 1971. Coral, amethysts, diamonds, platinum, yellow gold.

What a jewelry collection. What a life!

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

About Bill (Again)

Bill Cunningham at work. Photo by Steve Eichner.

I went to see Bill Cunningham New York at Film Forum in Manhattan, possibly the only theater in the country playing it right now, until March 29. I wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of audience—when I went to see The September Issue in 2009 there were maybe seven other people in the entire theater with me but this was not the case with Bill. I saw the first showing on a Saturday afternoon and it was sold out! Even the front row was filled. And now I know Bill brings people together—the audience was gay, straight, young, old, black, white. It felt like the U.N. in there.

There is great stuff in the film, from Bill’s beginnings as a milliner (selling under the name “William J.”) to being drafted into the Army in 1951 to filling Details magazine in its earliest days with pages and pages of fashion photographs. We see Bill Cunningham the New York Times photographer at his regular hangouts in Manhattan, snapping away on the streets and Bill the chronicler of the rich at charity events throughout the city, taking photos for his “Evening Hours” column but refusing even a glass of water at these fĂȘtes, not wanting there to be any confusion as to why he is there, not as a wealthy and famous person himself (though he is very well known) but as a Times photographer working a beat. We also see an old man being evicted from the tiny bare-bones (no bathroom, no kitchen) artist’s studio in Carnegie Hall he has lived in practically his entire adult life, surrounded by filing cabinets filled with photographic negatives and a bed made up of a foam mattress atop wooden crates.

Everybody who loves fashion should see this movie but it’s about more than clothes. At the center of the film is a very private man I found humble, simple, hard-working, frugal, loyal, surprisingly religious and deeply moving, as both an individual and a photographer seeking beauty.

A highlight I will share illustrates the morality of his character. In the 1980’s Bill started taking pictures for Women’s Wear Daily. It was “On the Street” in its earliest incarnation—featuring, side by side, clothes, as they were shown on the runway, and then how real women wore them. Without Bill’s knowledge or consent, the powers that be at WWD decided to publish the pictures but to ridicule the way the real women wore the clothes. Bill was horrified, a friend of his told the filmmakers, he really had an affection for the women dressed in runway clothes as they went about their everyday lives and it disturbed him that WWD made fun of these women. He never worked for them again.

I didn’t think it was possible for me to love Bill Cunningham any more than I already did, but after seeing this movie, I do.

See (and hear) Bill's latest “On the Street” video, showing what Signs of Spring he liked from Paris Fashion Week here.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

About Bill


The movie Bill Cunningham New York opened yesterday and in advance of my review of the film, which I hope to see this weekend, I thought I’d write about Bill, a man I find so inspiring. Bill Cunningham is the 82-year-old street fashion photographer for The New York Times who rides a bicycle to get around the city and always wears a blue smock since their deep pockets allow him to put film rolls inside. I had it from an acquaintance, a photo editor at The New York Times, that he and the other editors have tried to get Bill to not ride around on the bike, since he’s wrecked more than one, even been hit by a city bus (!), but all to no avail. To the bike he remains true. My friend also mentioned that something else Bill is true to is film, he does not take digital photographs.

I’ve enjoyed Bill’s photos for longer than I knew who he was, but it is his narration in “On the Street,” the weekly roundup of pictures he took and him talking about what fashion he is noticing on everyday people that made me a huge fan of him and his work. I love his Bostonian accent, “It’s mah-velous!” and his tendency to call anyone younger than himself “child,” or “young fellow,” often referring to people in their 50’s or 60’s. I just love that. I also adore his joy in clothes, which is so evident in what and who he shoots.


I had goosebumps on Fashion’s Night Out last September, standing outside Bergdorf Goodman’s in Manhattan, at 57th Street and Fifth Avenue, waiting for a friend, when I saw Bill Cunningham slowly walking his bike up the street toward me, camera around his neck. He was taking in the sea of very well (and expensively) dressed humanity all around us, just like me. I have lived in New York City for over 14 years but I can still have moments of “Pinch me, I’m in New York,” and seeing Bill Cunningham at work was one of them.

Bill Cunningham, September 10, 2010, New York City.

Interestingly, he was looking, but he wasn’t taking pictures. He was considering everything, everyone. I could feel it again when I saw him thirty minutes later, on the other side of Bergdorf’s (by this time I was waiting in a very long line to get in the store). He was observing, but he wasn’t shooting, which tells me he is very selective about when, and for what, he brings his camera to his eye. I can’t wait to learn more about the man and his methods in the new film. I think he has a lot to teach me, and everyone, about passion, longevity, and being true to yourself.

www.zeitgeistfilms.com/billcunninghamnewyork/

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Prada Platforms & Stripes

Prada for Spring 2011 makes for great window shopping. I love the stripes and I especially adore the platforms! I know I could walk in these shoes! I took these pictures last Sunday on a cool windy day in front of the Prada SoHo store at Broadway and Prince Street in Manhattan.

These striped dresses are much lovelier in person than in magazines and the silver platforms are divine.

These are silver all the way around, on a slightly sculpted platform. The salesman told me they are selling very well and that they cost $895. Ouch.



With the white fur stole and the sequined Mary Janes, this look has a flapper-quality to it which I love.

We're going disco dancing tonight, baby!

Prada accessories for Spring 2011 and me, snapping their picture.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Carrying Your Gas Mask in Style


I found the shape of this pebbled leather bag, featured in the Handbags 2011 calendar, so interesting. Then I read the description. It is from Russia, from 1940, and is a gas mask carrier. Whoa! Talk about accepting the harsh realities of your day to day life and deciding you are going to keep calm and carry on—in style.

Speaking of style, Japan is on my mind because of the earthquake, the tsunami and problems with some of the country's nuclear reactors. I think Japanese women are some of the most stylish and original dressers in the world and I hope they can find moments of beauty and inspiration, of any kind, amidst their sudden national emergency.

This gas mask carrier is proof that style is a form of hope during terrible times.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Clothes on Film

Natalie Portman in Black Swan, wearing a pink double-breasted coat from an original design by Amy Westcott, the film's costume designer.

Doing research on the Rodarte exhibit in L.A, I came across a fascinating and eye-opening interview with Black Swan costume designer Amy Westcott. I found it on the wonderful Clothes on Film, which features articles on costumes in movies. Recent offerings on the site include analysis of subjects that make a costume design fan like me swoon: Grace Kelly’s blue chiffon dress in To Catch a Thief, and Sharon Stone’s white dress, with matching jacket and nude slingbacks from the notorious interrogation scene in Basic Instinct.

What I found especially interesting in the Clothes on Film interview with Amy Westcott was learning that she, not Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, did the bulk of the costuming work in the film. Since I loved the looked of the clothes, especially the colors—pale pale pink, dove gray, the shades of white, the use of black—it was hard to know, as a filmgoer, if the Mulleavy sisters were responsible for this or the idea belonged to another costume designer. There was a lot more press about what the Mulleavy sisters did for the film than on Ms. Westcott’s more important role as overseer of every single stitch that made it into the movie. Ms. Westcott clears up the mystery on what costume designers do, comments on the Mulleavy sisters’ contribution to the film, and shares her feelings on being shut out of an Oscar nomination for Black Swan.

Mila Kunis (Lily) and Natalie Portman (Nina) in Black Swan. I loved the use of black and gray on Lily, Nina's dark doppelgÀnger.

The controversy between her and the Mulleavy sisters reminds me so much of the tensions between legendary Hollywood costume designer Edith Head and famed couturier Hubert de Givenchy, in work done for looks Audrey Hepburn wore in several films, including Sabrina, for which Ms. Head won an Oscar in 1954, though there is debate over who designed the “Sabrina” dress; Funny Face, in which both she and Givenchy were nominated for an Academy Award for best costume design in 1957, but did not win; and 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which received no nominations. Givenchy did the clothes Audrey wore in the film and Pauline TrigĂšre dressed Patricia Neal in her role as Mrs. Failenson. Edith Head is listed in the credits as “costume supervisor.”

If you like costume design in film as much as I do, you will want to check out the Clothes on Film site. Not only is it an excellent resource, it’s just plain fun to read.

www.clothesonfilm.com

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Rodarte: States of Matter

Photo by Autumn de Wilde.

For all you California lovelies, or visitors to that golden state, a new Rodarte exhibit promises to fuse fashion and film. Opening March 4, 2011 at The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)’s Pacific Design Center in West Hollywood, Rodarte: States of Matter will feature pieces from Rodarte’s Spring 2010, Fall 2010, and Fall 2008 runway collections, as well as original ballet costumes they designed for the film Black Swan, in which Natalie Portman danced her way to an Oscar.

Sketch by Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte.

Natalie Portman as Nina.

Kate and Laura Mulleavy are the sisters who started Rodarte only in 2005 and yet they are at the top of the fashion heap, the darling of magazine editors, and the recipients of numerous awards, including the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award, in 2009.

If I was still in San Diego (I lived there for many years), or visiting San Diego (my mother-in-law resides there--Hi Dot!) I would drive up to this Rodarte exhibit in a New York minute. Sometimes I love Rodarte and other times I just don’t get them at all. The ballet costumes they created for Black Swan were beautiful and haunting though, and added stunning visuals to the storyline of a dancer going mad, so I’m thinking that maybe if I spent some up close and personal time with a large collection of their work I would understand it better.

From the Fall 2008 Collection. I especially love the cardigan, the crazy socks and the killer shoes. Photo by Marcio Madeira.

From the Fall 2010 Collection. I'm sorry, but no. The shoes can stay, but they are by Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte. Photo by Marcio Madeira.

Rodarte: States of Matter is on view from March 4 through June 5, 2011.

MOCA Pacific Design Center
8687 Melrose Avenue
West Hollywood, CA 90069
www.moca.org