Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Pavé by JAR

JAR Lilac Brooches, 2001. Photo by Jozsef Tari.

I know for certain that my relatively newfound love of pavé diamonds and gemstones was all because of the exhibit Jewels by JAR at the Met in 2013. That show was really right up there with the best shows I’ve ever seen on any subject and of course for jewelry I feel it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience since it was the first retrospective of JAR’s work in the United States and there were over 400 pieces on display.

JAR Raspberry Brooch, 2011. Photo by Jozsef Tari.

JAR, the initials of Joel Arthur Rosenthal, is the legendarily elusive and somewhat temperamental Bronx-born, Parisian-based jeweler, and these were some of the pavé pieces I loved best from his show at the Met. The effects he achieves with pavé-set stones—the colors, the shapes, the brilliance—are stunning.

I liked this quote about the JAR’s unique pavé work, from the Met press materials:

“The color and the shading of his pavé technique became a signature, as did the diamond thread work.”

JAR Butterfly Brooch, 1994. Photo by Katharina Faerber.

JAR Cameo and Rose Petal Brooch, 2011. Photo by Jozsef Tari.

At the time of the exhibit preview I was really taken with JAR’s animal brooches, they are some of the most gorgeous things I have ever laid eyes on, but on revisiting the digital press kit, as well as the pictures I took, I realize that JAR’s pavé work has really stuck with me and been on my mind for a year and a half! Here are three sets of earrings that I think are beyond amazing and I do not wear big earrings at all!

I am totally in love with these pavé chevron pendant stunners from 2007.

I love the shimmer of these incredible Fringe Earrings from 2013.

Weeping Willow Pendant Earrings, 2011. Notice the diamond threads. I am weeping, indeed!

I found three fun articles about JAR you might like to read. One was on called “The Cult of JAR” by Susan Adams and was written back in 2006, years before the Met exhibit. The two others, my favorites, are by Cathleen McCarthy of The Jewelry Loupe, who has been so lucky as to try on some JAR jewelry! When Ellen Barkin was selling her jewelry in 2006 after her divorce from Ron Perelman, Ms. McCarthy attended the auction preview and got to put on some of the JAR rings before they went on the block at Christie’s New York. You have to see Ms. McCarthy’s pictures, the rings are as big as her hand! How fun that she got so up close and personal with these stunning works of art! You can read her posts and see her pictures here and here.

I don’t own any pavé—yet—but it would be nice to add a pavé piece to my small fine jewelry collection one day. Of course, it won’t be by JAR unless I hit the lottery, so I will just have to admire photos of his work!

Let me know if you own any pavé jewelry or if you saw Jewels by JAR at the Met.


Pam @ over50feeling40 said...

OOlala...these are gorgeous! Thanks for telling me, Jill!

Catherine Robinson said...

Exquisitely beautiful, Jill...I haven't heard of this jeweller before; his work is stunning. I hope you own your piece of small fine jewellery someday soon :)
Have a lovely weekend...Diamond Girl! xx

Coulda shoulda woulda said...

my mother always advised me not to get pave of any sort because she thinks intrinsically they are of less value and the markup is quite high because of the work involved. If budget were no limit then I would get lots but most of us have to make the best choices right? ;) x

Jill said...

Hi Pam, I think you would've really liked this preview! xx

Jill said...

Hi Catherine, oh you make me laugh...Diamond Girl! I can't help it, I am in the middle of a jewelry obsession! I blame JAR, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor, and Rachel Zoe, not necessarily in that order. Ha! xx

Jill said...

Hi Naomi! I think your mother may be right regarding pave! I would like to add a tiny pave ring to stack with other rings and then I think I could move onto other jewelry to love and boy, there sure is a lot of it, isn't there. Thank you so much for your post on Monaco. I feel like I just took a mini-vacation. You are the best. xx

Alice Warren said...

These pieces are gorgeous! I would love to add one to my closet too. Thank you for joining TBT Fashion link up and hope to see you Thursday.


Jill said...

Hi Alice, it was fun to join all the stylish gals at your link-up. I hope to be there this coming week too! xx