Friday, November 11, 2011

Chanel Do Over

A trio of feathery sequined suits from the “Sparkle” section of Daphne Guinness.

When I attended the recent lecture Andrew Bolton gave at FIT on this year’s Alexander McQueen exhibit at the Met, one thing I found interesting is what he had to say about the lessons he learned from the 2005 Chanel exhibit, which he organized, along with Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute at the Met. The Chanel exhibition, Bolton noted, was “stark, minimal, it looked like fashion.” He also noted the public didn’t respond to it as much as they did to McQueen. If he had the exhibit to do over, he said he would focus on the detailing of Chanel’s clothes, knowing Coco herself was very concerned with the fit of a sleeve, say, or in the way a skirt hung.

In that spirit, I thought I’d take another opportunity to show pieces from Daphne Guinness’s Chanel collection, part of her larger couture collection now on view at The Museum at FIT, but with a focus on the details.

A Chanel jacket made of ivory sequins on silk net, with white feathers.

This suit is made of wool crepe, with a flared skirt over “mushroom” petticoats in pleated and embroidered tulle. From the 2002 Chanel Haute Couture collection.

The back of the suit featuring an ivory ribbon, a particular touch of Daphne’s and one I love, giving the suit a romantic feel. Can’t you picture the wind fluttering this ribbon in the breeze?


The “mushrooms” attached to the petticoat appear to be made up of a lightweight metal. Amazing.

Dior on the left in champagne pink, Chanel on the right in black.

The back of the Chanel and Dior dresses.

Detail of the diamanté tips on the back of the dress, making an interesting and modern train. Who wouldn’t want to follow this lady at the party to see where she’s going?

Daphne Guinness is on view through January 7, 2012.

The Museum at FIT

Seventh Avenue and 27th Street
New York NY 10001-5992
212-217-4558
Hours: Tuesday-Friday: Noon-8PM
Saturday: 10AM-5PM
Closed Sundays, Mondays, and legal holidays
Admission is free

9 comments:

Pam @ over50feeling40 said...

Love every detail...especially the ribbon down the back...so feminine! Lovely post...each picture an enjoyment, Jill! Happy Weekend!

Patti said...

I just got to see this exhibit two weeks ago. I gasped at the Dior dress - so exquisite. I love the details you have captured here.

Veshoevius said...

Wow! I love details in clothing - it is what makes all the difference in the ordinary and the extraordinary. Great pics. I love that metal mushroom petticoat!

Jeanne said...

Thanks for such an interesting post Jill. I love it all!

triskelos said...

I'm so impressed by that beautiful detailing on the pettycoat, I have no words. Incredible!
Thank you so much for these pictures, I love that I have an oppotunity to see all these timeless classic <3

sacramento said...

Thank you so much my dearest friend.
I am slowly learning to be looked after, but hopefully not for long.
I am so glad about your new job.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

fashionoverfifty said...

Love the diamante tips--brilliant. And the mushroom petticoat. Forever 21 eat your heart out!

Fashion Tales.... said...

I want to make a trip to NYC just to see the couture collection, I love details. Some of my favourite things to work with sequins and feathers ... I adore! Thanks for this post, such beautiful work. xo

freny said...

"Love the make-up, love the shoes, love the photos most especially those Feminine dresses.
"