A trio of feathery sequined suits from the “Sparkle” section of Daphne Guinness.
When I attended the recent lecture Andrew Bolton gave at FIT on this year’s Alexander McQueen exhibit at the Met, one thing I found interesting is what he had to say about the lessons he learned from the 2005 Chanel exhibit, which he organized, along with Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute at the Met. The Chanel exhibition, Bolton noted, was “stark, minimal, it looked like fashion.” He also noted the public didn’t respond to it as much as they did to McQueen. If he had the exhibit to do over, he said he would focus on the detailing of Chanel’s clothes, knowing Coco herself was very concerned with the fit of a sleeve, say, or in the way a skirt hung.
In that spirit, I thought I’d take another opportunity to show pieces from Daphne Guinness’s Chanel collection, part of her larger couture collection now on view at The Museum at FIT, but with a focus on the details.
A Chanel jacket made of ivory sequins on silk net, with white feathers.
This suit is made of wool crepe, with a flared skirt over “mushroom” petticoats in pleated and embroidered tulle. From the 2002 Chanel Haute Couture collection.
The back of the suit featuring an ivory ribbon, a particular touch of Daphne’s and one I love, giving the suit a romantic feel. Can’t you picture the wind fluttering this ribbon in the breeze?
The “mushrooms” attached to the petticoat appear to be made up of a lightweight metal. Amazing.
Dior on the left in champagne pink, Chanel on the right in black.
The back of the Chanel and Dior dresses.
Detail of the diamanté tips on the back of the dress, making an interesting and modern train. Who wouldn’t want to follow this lady at the party to see where she’s going?
Daphne Guinness is on view through January 7, 2012.
The Museum at FIT
Seventh Avenue and 27th Street
New York NY 10001-5992
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Admission is free